underwear drafting plans!


9780983132820 (bare essentials, requested on ILL)








how to custom draft underwear

account for stretch (ease)

dont stretch elastic when sewing. make smaller than measurements by a certain amount, maybe an inch or two of “negative ease”

” I should also point out that you could stretch just about anything until the point of breaking if you really try. The important thing is to make sure that you can stretch at least 25 percent without getting any resistance from the threads holding the seam together. If possible, aim for at least 50 percent stretching, especially if you are sewing a garment that will remain stretched when on the body.”




knit bindings: knit running lengthwise, use 1.25 to 2 inches, folded in half and ironed flat also lengthwise. then sew it on stretching the binding to match the leghole, before side seam is done up

leg bindings 80 or 90 % of original length of the leg hole. add bindings before side seam is done upfinish knit binding with a twin needle

To complete your binding, simply fold the binding over and toward the inside of the garment. Using a twin needle or a zigzag stitch, topstitch around each of the openings.



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